Agri Sba: Cabbage Production Essay

gip evolves best in cool prevail, just certain cultivars ar alike adapted for the warmer months. In the cooler areas of the country, where frost usu entirelyy occurs azoic or late in the season, Glory of Enkhuizen, Kiaps Spits, Green Cor sensationt and Gloria tooshie be localise from January to March, and Green jumper lead and Bonanza, from August to January. In the warmer areas of the country, where little to no frost occurs, Glory of Enkhuizen, Kiaps Spits, Green Coronet and Gloria can be im beed from March to May, and Green Star and Bonanza, from January to December. gazump grows best when foundlets are grown and then im lay show up. You can grow your own typesets or buy them from a nursery. cogitate that vellicate plantlets cannot be lay out before the age of five to six weeks.If you want to plant out at the blood line of February, for instance, you mustiness already sow the microbe in the middle of December. Cabbage will grow considerably on most well d rained priming coat types. That means that water must not rest on the ground surface besides long later the plants collapse been watered. Where this is the case, convert must be dug into the soil. Shallow soils on a hard rocky, clayey or lime layer, must be withered. Cabbage takes up m whatever plant nutrients from the soil. We put plant nutrients into the soil by digging convert and fertiliser into it. A great deal of extreme plant food such as compost and manure is necessary for the plant.When the bed is dug over, 4 kg of compost or manure per forthrightly meter (m2) of ground can be dug into the soil. By the way, 1 m2 equals the size of a forthrightly meter, the sides of which consist of spades. Compost and manure do not, only when, provide the cabbage plant with enough plant nutrients. It too requires nitrogen (N), the Tempter (P) and potassium (K). It is most important first to analyses the soil to determine its nutrient content. Remember an excessive amount of nutrients will burn the plants and a besides small amount will case in poor gain. If a soil analysis has not yet been done, the following quantities of fertiliser may be applied At planting 75 g of 232 (30) per m2.These plant nutrients are a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. This means that three plant nutrients are slide byn to the plant simultaneously. These nutrients must be dug into the soil well, before planting. Four weeks after planting25 g of ammonium sulphate per m2, or20 g of limestone ammonium nitrate (LAN) per m2.As soon as the plants begin to form targets, the following can be applied 25 g of ammonium sulphate per m2, or 20 g of limestone ammonium nitrate (LAN) per m2.Take care not to let the plant nutrients touch the plants as this can burn the stems. Water the plants as soon as possible after having fertilized them, so that the nutrients can dissolve and be washed into the soil. Before the plantlets are planted, the soil must be dug over, clods, st ones and low-downs must be removed, and the soil must be leveled. The cabbage plantlets are planted in rows. In-row spacing must be approximately 40 cm and between-row spacing must be 60 cm. The soil in which the plants were grown must be moist when the plants are taken out to be replanted. They must be lifted carefully out of the ground so that the roots are not damaged. Choose short, sturdy, healthy plants to plant out. After they have been taken out, they must be cover with a moist cloth or hessian until they are planted.They must preferably be planted on cool, cloudy eld or late in the afternoon. The plantlets must be planted in moist soil which is then firmly pressed down around the plant. After the plantlets have been planted, they must be watered as soon as possible. A cover of grass clippings, dry leaves or straw between the plants prevents evaporation of soil moisture and withal suppresses weed emergence. If the soil is allowed to live on too dry, and it is then wat ered, it may happen that the cabbage passing games burst open. In cool weather, cabbage can be watered once a week in very hot weather, ii to three multiplication a week. Cabbage can be harvested as soon as well-developed hard heads have formed. in that respect are at least four kinds of insects that damage cabbages during the growing season. They are* the American bollworm,* aphids,* the diamondback moth, and* The barged bug.The American bollworm and the diamondback moth eat holes in the cabbage leaves. Aphids suck out the sap of the plant and the leaves turn yellowish and become misshapen. The barged bug also eats the leaves and causes great damage.Land preparationPrior to planting, the soil postulate to be prepared, usually by some form of cultivated land or chemical substance burn-down to vote down the weeds in the seedbed that would crowd out the clip or compete with it for water and nutrients. Tillage methods can be divided into three major categories, depending on the amount of crop symmetricalness they leave on the surface. sleep slows the flow of run off that can displace and carry away soil particles. * Conventional tillage Until the last decade or so the standard tillage practice for corn was use of the mouldboard plow for primary tillage followed by several secondary tillages and mechanical finale after the crop was up. * Reduced tillage is usually done with a chisel plow and leaves 15% to 30% resi collect coverage on the soil. * Conservation tillage leaves at least 30% residue coverage on the soil. Conservation tillage methods accept no-till, where no tillage is done at all and seeds are placed directly into the previous seasons crop residue strip-till, in which except the narrow strip of land needed for the crop row is tilled ridge till and mulch till.Soils Cabbage grows well on a wide variety of soils, provided a well-drained sandy loam with amply organic matter content is preferred. Avoid soils that dry rapidly. Herbicides are use in all these methods to kill weeds. A common myth is that more(prenominal) herbicide is utilise with conservation tillage methods, save in fact farmers rely on herbicides for weed control nether all tillage systems, and the amount used is more or slight in reliant of tillage method. Impacts of soil erosion Soil erosion has both on-farm impacts (reduction in yield and farm income) and off-farm impacts (contaminated water due to the sediment and associated contamination from nutrients and pesticides carried on the soil particle). On-farm impacts due to the loss of soil and nutrients implicate* lower fertility levels* development of rills and gullies in the field* poorer crop yields* less water infiltration into the soilWhen fertile topsoil is lost, nutrients and organic matter needed by crops oft are removed along with it. Erosion tends to remove the less dense soilconstituents such as organic matter, clays, and silts, which are often the most fertile part of the soil.Soil p reparationAll genus Brassica crops grow best in partial shade, in firm, fertile, free-draining soil. * Start digging over your soil in autumn, re abject any stones you find and working in plenty of well-rotted manure or compost. * Tread on the soil to remove any air pockets and feature the surface very firm. * Brassicas will fail if the soil is too acidic so add lime to the soil if necessary, aiming for a pH of 6.5-7.5.IrrigationDue to their large leafage area, cabbage requires at least a 25 cm (1 inch) of water per week to sustain unspoilt growth. Excessive watering late in the season can cause head-splitting. Uneven soil moisture can cause fluctuations in the uptake of nutrients and lead to tip burn or head-splitting. Soil should be kept at 60 to 70 percent field capacity to ensure good yields and head quality. The fact that cabbage is a cool season crop indicates that it responds favorably to lower temperatures with adequate amounts of rainfall. Cabbage also requires well-drai ned soil. Soil that is not well-drained should either have drainage tiles installed or have some organic matter added to it to improve soil aeration.SeedingDirect-seeded cabbage is usually planted in proto(prenominal) to mid-May. Direct-seeded cabbages are planted 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 inches) away (1.1 kg/ha or 1 lbs. /ac) and vitiated later. The following are seeding rates for shifted cabbageEarly* in-row spacing 25 to 46 cm apart (10 to 18 inches) apart* between-row spacing 0.76 m (2.5 feet) apartMid-season* in-row spacing 30 to 46 cm (12 to 18 inches) apart* between-row spacing 0.7 to 0.9 m (2 to 3 feet) apart Late-season* in-row spacing 46 to 61 cm (18 to 24 inches) apart* between-row spacing 0.7 to 0.9 m (2 to 3 feet) apart Row spacing will be dependent on your tillage, planting and harvesting equipment. Many cabbage growers in Saskat chit-chatan use transplants to reduce seed costs, revive crop development, increase yields, overcome problems with cruciferous flea bee tles destroying emerging seedlings, eliminate costs associated with thinning the direct-seeded crop and avoid soil crusting problems in clay soils.In warm, dry springs flea beetle populations are high enough that flea beetles are already present on the crop as it emerges. Damage at emergence injures the growing tip, causing bolting, misshapen heads or death. Growers who transplant have the option of planting and then following behind with an insect powder p stretch to kill the flea beetles before any damage can occur. The same can and is done for direct-seeded cabbage, but the grower must be more vigilant and belt uply watch for seedling emergence. They can then make a pass with an insecticide. A seed row treatment, such as Di-Syston 15 G, can be applied during planting to control cruciferous flea beetles.Seed TreatmentSeed costs for cabbage have increased over the last 10 geezerhood, primarily because of the shift to hybrid types. Due to the seeds higher value, it is best to tre at it with a fungicide, such as Thiram 75WP, to prevent seedling blight, damping off and seed decay. angry water treatment of the seed is effective against alter aria, black rot and blackleg. This treatment can be specially done by your seed company, but must be done prior to seed coating.How to sow seedsNearly all brassicas should be planted in a seedbed or in modules under glass and then transferred. Seeds should be sown thinly, as this reduces the amount of future thinning necessary and electric potential risk from pests. * Sow seeds 1.25cm (1/2in) deep and rows should be spaced 15cm (6in) apart. * Once the seeds have germinated, thin the seedlings to 7.5cm (3in) between for for each one one plant. * Cabbage and broccoli seedlings are ready for transplanting when theyre between 6 and 8cm high (2.5-3in). capital of Belgium sprouts and kale should be 15cm (6in).Water the day before moving, and keep well watered until established. * Space the plants according to the instruction manual on the seed packet. It can vary from 30cm for small cabbages to 75cm for Brussels sprouts.Aftercare* Brassicas are locomoteed by a wide range of pests and diseases, especially the fungal disease, club root. The roots become stubby and swollen and can develop wet rot, while leaves become yellow and wilt, causing severe stunting of growth. Remove any infected plants from the ground and destroy. * Make sure the soil is adequately limed and well drained, and do not plant cabbages in the same place the following year. * Rotate your crops annually to avoid disease. Dont grow brassicas on the same plot more often than one year in three, as moving the crop helps avoid the buildup of soil pests and diseases. * Brassicas are a particular favorite of birds so use a deterrent to stop them picking off seedlings. CDs on string can be effective. Theyre also susceptible to contend by the caterpillars of the cabbage white butterfly. Try covering crops with a crop tax shelter mesh. It keep s the butterflies out, so they cant lay their eggs on the plants.Pest ProblemsDiseases* Club root (Plasmodiophora brassicae) is a soil borne disease that is more active in soils that are slightly acidic. Saskatchewans alkaline soils are a deterrent to this pest. Wart-like growths or knots form on the base of the plant, restricting water and nutrient uptake. take in measures implicate using clean transplants, maintaining soil pH above 7.3, disinfecting all tillage equipment, increasing days between cruciferous crops and keeping cruciferous weeds under control. The field can be fumigated however this is costly. * Blackleg (Phoma lingam) this fungal disease is active at low temperatures. Symptoms include seedling death, or bluish growth on the stems of older plants near the base.Upon germination, infected seedlings are covered by lesions that can be circularise to adjacent plants by rainfall or irrigation. Blackleg can be controlled with the hot water treatment (see Black rot). Eradicate cruciferous weeds and have at least a three-year crop whirling with other cruciferous crops. * Downy Mildew (Peronospora parasitica) is a fungus that over-winters in perennial plants and infected plant debris. Symptoms include a tan paper-like appearance that continues to develop into larger, sunken areas on the head. Control measures include a three-year crop rotation with non-cruciferous crops and preventative applications of Bravo 500, Clean Crop Copper 53W or Zinc b 80W.Insects* cruciferous flea beetle (Phyllotreta cruciferae) is the most serious insect pest facing Saskatchewan cabbage earnrs. These small black beetles attack cabbages throughout the growing season. They are especially dangerous in the spring when seedlings are emerging. The large acreage of canola in Saskatchewan ensures that there will always be a sizeable population of flea beetles in the province. Flea beetles victuals on emerging cabbage crops cause seedling death, uneven growth and maturity . Flea beetles have one generation per year, but the adults appear twice, once early in the spring and again later in the fall. * Control measures include crop rotations of more than three years with non-cruciferous crops, eliminating cruciferous weeds and not planting near palm that have cruciferous crops. Flea beetles can be controlled chemically by using foliar applied Ambush, Di-Syston, Endosulfan, Matador, Pounce, Ripcord, Sevin, Thiodan or Thionex.Cabbage maggot larva* Cabbage Maggot- (Delia radicum) is an underground pest that feeds on the roots of the host plants. The survival rate of the eggs is highest when the weather is cool and moist, much like spring conditions. Cabbage maggots can severely stunt growth or kill seedlings, and can lower quality and reduce yields of more mature plants. The maggot is the larval stage of the cabbage maggot fly, which looks much like a common housefly. The lifecycle has two generations per season. Control measures include a crop rotation o f three or more years away from cruciferous crops and eradication of cruciferous weeds. The main chemical control for cabbage maggots is an insecticide drench placed near the seed at planting. Control products include foliar applied Lorsban, Pyrinex, or Sniper.Imported Cabbage worm larvae* Imported Cabbage Worm and Cabbage inchworm (Pieris rapae) and (Tricoplusia Ni) are also referred to as the cabbage butterfly. Imported cabbage worm larvae, which are light kilobyte in the larval stage, are incredibly destructive. They chew large holes in the leaves and head of cabbages. Their waste products also contaminate the head. Control measures include a crop rotation of three or more years away from cruciferous crops and eradication of cruciferous weeds. The main chemical control is repeated foliar applications of the one of the following products Ambush, Cymbush, Decis, Diazinon, Dibrom, Dylox, Endosulfan, Guthion, Lannate, Malathion, Matador, Methoxychlor, Monitor, Orthene, Pounce, Ripc ord, Sevin, Sniper, Thiodan, or Thionex. Dipel, (Bacillus thuringiensis ssp. Kurstaki) is a biological insecticide that also controls cabbage worms.* Diamondback Moth (Plutella xylostella) does not over-winter in Canada but rather the adult moths fly or blow up each year from the United States. Larvae chew irregular patterns into the lower leaves. The larvae may also tunnel into the head of the cabbage, hurting its market potential. Control measures include monitoring the crop for arrival of adults and eradicating any cruciferous plants, including weeds and the refuse left over from early harvests of cruciferous crops. Chemical controls include the following products Ambush, Cymbush, Decis, Diazinon, Dibrom, Dipel, Dylox, Endosulfan, Guthion, Lannate, Matador, Monitor, Orthene, Pounce, Ripcord, Sevin, Sniper, Thiodan, or Thionex pottysCompetition from weeds early in the season will slow both emergence and early growth. Weeds can be controlled with change tillage to destroy any we ed seedlings. Weeds can be controlled chemically with Devrinol, Venture, Poast and Treflan. Check pock recommendations for application rates, timing and weeds controlled.Tip burn on a Chinese cabbage headOther Problems* Head splitting is caused by excessively rapid growth. This problem can be managed by ensuring there is adequate organic matter to hold soil moisture, providing consistent even watering, avoiding over-fertilizing with nitrogen, and spacing close and evenly to discourage excess and rapid root growth. Heads that are cracked should be culled, as they become an entry point for secondary infections such as soft rot. * Tipburn is caused by inadequate amounts of calcium in the youngest region of the plant. Usually, this is due to rapid growth. Tipburn occurs when the translocation of calcium to the growing tip is slowed. There are no sign outer symptoms on the cabbage head, but the inner leaves turn brown. Tipburn can only be controlled by discouraging rapid growth (see head splitting). Adding calcium to the soil does not fix this problem. Tipburn is very cultivar specific.WeedingWeed control is the botanical component of pest control, using physical and chemical methods to stop weeds from reaching a mature stage of growth when they could be harmful to domesticated plants and livestock. In order to reduce weed growth, many weed control strategies have been developed in order to contain the growth and spread of weeds. The most basic is ploughing which cuts the roots of annual weeds. Today, chemical weed killers known as herbicides are widely used.Effects on other plantsWeeds can compete with productive crops or pasture, or convert productive land into unusable scrub. Weeds are also often poisonous, distasteful, produce burrs, thorns or other damaging body parts or otherwise interfere with the use and attention of desirable plants by contaminating harvests or excluding livestock. Weeds tend to thrive at the expense of the more refined edible or orna mental crops. They provide competition for space, nutrients, water and light, although how seriously they will affect a crop depends on a number of factors. Some crops have greater resistance than others- smaller, gradual growing seedlings are more likely to be overwhelmed than those that are larger and more vigorous.Onions are one of the crops most susceptible to competition, for they are slow to germinate and produce slender, upright stems. Quick growing, broad riff weeds therefore have a distinct advantage, and if not removed, the crop is likely to be lost. all-inclusive beans however produce large seedlings, and will suffer far less profound effects of weed competition other than during periods of water shortage at the crucial time when the pods are filling out. Transplanted crops embossed in sterile seed or potting compost will have a head spring over germinating weed seeds. Methods Stale seed bed technique, Use of herbicides, Organic methods, Thermal methods.DIGGING OF HO LES displaceIndividual containers with more than one seedling must be thinned to one plant. Pinch out or cut off the extra seedlings while the first leaves are still small. Seedlings germinated in trays must be transplanted to individual containers while still small. Lift and separate seedlings and replant them into individual containers such as peat pots, pliable kalpaks (saved from previously purchased transplants be sure to wash them), peat pellets, or other small containers. Use a commercial message soilless potting mix or prepare your own. Be sure the plants harden off that is, gradually get used to unsheltered life outdoors. During their last week indoors, withhold fertilizer and water less often.7 to 10 days before transplanting, set the seedlings outdoors in dappled shade that is protected from winds for a few hours each day, gradually increasing their exposure to full sun and windy conditions. Keep the soil moist at all times during the hardening-off period. Dry air and s pring breezes can result in rapid transpiration. If possible, transplant on overcast days or in the early morning. Set transplants into loose, well-aerated soil that will hoodwink and retain moisture, drain well, and allow easy penetration by seedling roots. See when soil is ready for planting. hook the soil around new seedlings immediately after transplanting. Spread mulch to reduce soil-moisture loss.To ensure that phosphoruswhich promotes strong root developmentis available in the root zone of new transplants, mix two tablespoons of a 15-30-15 starter fertilizer into a gallon of water (one tablespoon for vining crops such as melons and cucumbers), and give each seedling a cup of the solution after transplanting. Anything that raises soil temperature will help plants adjust to the impingement of cold ground. Try raised planting beds and plastic mulch to boost soil temperature.